Injectors
How to remove:
Here I am showing how to replace all 6 injectors.
The first thing you must do is remove the injection lines, to get to them, you must remove the intake horn and take the grid heater wires off their posts on the intake, since those cables go over the top of the injection lines.
If you don’t know how to do that, take bolts in red off, loosen the red intercooler bolt way up and then the intake horn will twist out of the intercooler boot.
Now take the green grid heater leads off, as you can see from the big blue circle that they are in the way.
You can now see all the injection lines, but to get them off, we have to remove 2 injector line clamps that hold them together and to the engine. The red shows the clamp bolts. They have plastic spacers to organize the lines equidistant from each other, these spacers just fall off when the bolts are taken out. There is a locknut and washer on each bolt.
The wastegate line is an issue as it is above the injection lines that we are trying to remove, my suggestion is to carefully bend it up out of the way, which may only take bending it a few inches. The circle in blue shows the hose barb that the wastegate goes to.
Now you loosen all of the injector line hold down nuts and lift them all straight up and off. You will end up with just the injector lines.
With the injection lines gone you can easily get to the injectors, start by taking off all the return line bolts being careful to remove the copper washer that slides off because of both washers being connected to each other.
Now you can remove the injector hold down nuts and pull them off the injector. There are dust rings inside the nut to keep dust out that are probably hard and cracked that you should replace.
To pull the injector, you can either use a special cummins slide hammer tool, which screws onto the injector line threads and is probably a lot easier to do, or you can pull a lugnut off and screw it on and then use vise grips to pull the injector. They are in there very tight so you might have to get creative with how you get enough force to break them loose. Make sure whatever you thread onto it, that you screw it all the way down so you spread the load onto all the threads instead of just a few, which could damage them.
Make sure you do not forgot about the copper washer on the tip of the injector! It is very thin and will fall off easily and getting a new washer can be a hassle since they must be an exact thickness to keep spray cone in check.
How to install:
To install, clean the bore of the injector out so it is perfectly clean, clean the injectors if you are reinstalling old ones. I put a thin layer of grease all over mine to protect them from rust or further rusting.
When you put the injector in, you must align the little ball bearing with the ball keyway slot. This is also the point where the return line hole is pointing straight down or to the passenger side. If you tighten the injector and it spins on you, get it finger tight, then take a wrench and turn the injector using the flat spots next to the return line hole.
Now you can put in the hold down nut after cleaning it really good. Use some antiseize on the threads and make sure when you put it over the injector that you do not let the dust ring pop out and get lost, try and push the dust ring down with the hold down nut while it is going over the injector, otherwise, use a screwdriver to push the ring back into the groove.
Everything else is the reverse process. Make sure you clean everything; top of the injector, end of the injector lines, top of the injection pump where the lines go, mating surfaces of the return line, all nuts and bolts. The fuel system is very delicate and works with very high pressure, anything that gets into the lines will go through the injector and plug it or damge it.
Wrote up by ISX